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Home Site Map - Steps - Basement Walls and Ceiling -

Batons, Doors, Windows


Buy windows and doors

Details on selecting windows can be found here and info on doors is here .

Purchase the quantity that you need for the basement.

Casement window Pella 


Prepare window openings

Remove sliding window bucking and remake

Remove the sliding window bucking.  It may be necessary to cut the bottom sill with a circular saw because of concrete through the fill holes.

Window hole without sliding bucking 

Pulleys getting sliding bucking down 

Window divider seen from outside 

The details of the window bucking design can be found here .  In the diagram below, the join between the removable part of the bucking and the bits that stay in place is signified by the red line.  The blue line shows the waterproof membrane (which stays in place).

Window bucking for concrete pour 

Remake the sliding bucking as needed.  Replacing the bottom sill is the only essential section to replace because it has concrete fill holes in it.

The sides need a 0.5"-0.5" 45 degree bevel on the inside edge.  The edge of the drywall will attach to the 45 degree bevel.

Positioning window divider 

Adjusting and positioning window dividers 

Large sliding bucking with divider 

Window sliding bucking with two dividers 

Cut away EPS and lumber at 45 degrees

As can be seen in the diagram below, it is necessary to cut away the polystyrene and the lumber in the window opening to form a 45 degree angle on the left and right.  This is to increase the angle of view out through the windows given that the walls are so thick.  The cutting is not done at the top and bottom of the window openings (only at the left and right sides).

Window bucking after cutting away at 45 degrees 

The reference point for the 45 degree cut is the corner of the set concrete.  Nearly half the width of the 8" wide 2-bys that slot into the ICF cavity will get cut away.  The cut can be a little rough because it will eventually be covered up by drywall.

Center pillar cut at 45 degrees 

Fit sliding bucking

It goes back into the window hole. but is fitted with a 3.5" back from the edge of the in-cavity bucking.  This means it will protrude by 3-3/8" beyond the outside face of the ICF EPS.

Sliding bucking forward before cutting plastic 

Sliding bucking forward after cutting plastic 

Sliding bucking fitted in final position 

Center window divider end on 

Center window divider side on 

Working on big window openings 

Three working on large window frame 

Big window openings with three working 

Repair ICF EPS around window area

Cutting ICF on table saw 

Filled in ICF EPS under concrete lip 

ICF EPS around concrete lip 


Waterproof sliding bucking protrusion

Use 12" wide strips of Grace Ice and Water to waterproof top bottom and sides of the protrusion.  Do the bottom strip first and the top strip last.  The first 1.5" is the surface that the window seats on and it finishes with 4" stuck onto the outside wall ICF EPS.

At the corners where the straight pieces of Grace Ice and Water meet, fit pieces of flexible wrap over the top.  Details of the flexible flashing for the corners is here .

Initial window flashing 

Site with first window flashing 

Fit windows

Window screws 

Windows are very heavy, so you will want to rig up a rope and pulley system to the top two corners.

Cutting window shims 

Window shims around window 

Window fitted using screws 

Window small fitted inside 

Downstairs wide window fitted outside 

Downstairs wide window fitted inside 

Double window fitted inside 

Double window fitted outside 

Bottom of big window inside 

Big window inside looking up 

Top of big window inside 

Site with west windows 

Site with big window fitted 

Multiple windows from inside 

Big composite window 

Site with east windows fitted 

Inside upstairs all windows 

Inside downstairs all windows 

Site all windows fitted 

Add flashing over window nail flange

This is an additional layer of flashing on the outside over the window nailing flange once the window has been fitted.  Conventional window says there should not be and flashing along the bottom of the window so that water can drip out.  However this does not make sense in the context of an air tight house.  You will want flashing along the bottom and it need to be applied before flashing the sides.  The flashing along the top of the window is done last.

Second layer of window flashing 

As a final step, on the corners add some flexible self-stick gasket...

Window flexible corner flashing 

Site - All windows done 




Install exterior doors


Make and install garage door